Author Archives: OneStopTechShop

How to reset and secure my wireless router?

April 30, 2011 – 12:00 am

Q.

I was wondering if you could please help me!

I was trying to configure my wireless settings so that they are secure for all of my computers. However, I completely messed everything up! I don’t remember exactly what I did…just that I need a REDO button! I am able to connect wirelessly from my desktop computer, however, when trying to connect from my laptop, it says that it is unable to connect. I think the settings on my laptop have been messed up…and maybe it would be better to just reinstall the router?? My “dlink” connection is available but it will not let me connect. I was wondering if you could please help me.

My router is a DIR-615

The only thing I remember about what I did was that it printed the following when I tried changing things so my network was secure:

Wireless Settings
Network Name (SSID): Wagner
Network Key (WEP/WPA Key): ***********
Key Provided Automatically (802.1x): 0
Network Authentication Type: WPAPSK
Data Encryption Type: TKIP
Connection Type: ESS

A.

On the back of the router will be a small reset button, usually recessed into the plastic.  Using a paper clip, a pen, or something similar, depress the button for a full 30 seconds.  This will reset the router to it’s factory default.

As far as the D-Link software goes, if it were me, I’d uninstall it from the computer(s).  You do not need the D-Link software to access the router’s configuration, you just need to enter it’s IP address (usually 192.168.1.1 or 192.268.2.1) in a web browser.

As far as security goes – there is no such thing as a “secure” wireless connection, but there are steps you can take to make it very hard to crack.  Most important is using WPA for the encryption, and making the password as long as you can, using “special” characters (things like -’><}{][|\)(*&^%$#@!, etc…) – this will make it extremely hard for someone to crack. In your example (which I blanked out with *’s), you were using all numbers for the Network Key. NEVER use all letters or all numbers for a password with wireless – it makes it simple to crack. ALWAYS use a mix (something like “!a1^b2^c3!”).

Hope that helps.

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How to get rid of the Vundo (Virtumonde) trojan?

April 26, 2011 – 10:12 am

Q.

Hi, recently my computer started acting weird. Some of the icons on my desktop were different (white paper icons?) when I tried to click the programs they wouldn’t work. I did a scan with (norton antivirus) but got nothing. I still suspected something here, so the only thing I could think of was a system restore. Although my icons came back, many of my originally installed programs (hp media programs) were there but could not work when I clicked them! I had to reinstall programs like mixcraft, because it was corrupt. I searched to find what was it that was making the software impossible to run, and the only thing that I have found for now is the Vundo Trojan, and so far nothing is working for me… I tried FixVundo.exe, I’m not sure how to manually delete it from the registry (I’m not really sure how to get rid of it at all), but so far nothing works, and I’m a complete nooby, and worried my new laptop will just crash on me. I have an hp envy 14, windows 7, and I’m in dire need to get rid of this dreaded pest! Thank you!

A.

Ahh, Vundo (or, Virtumonde)… It’s been around for a long time, in a variety of “mutations”, but the song remains the same. Vundo is a pain to remove, but it is possible.

First, you’ll need to download a few things.

If you have any networked computers (other PC’s connected together), you’ll need to run through this list on all of them – this spyware/virus can infect shared folders on networks.

You already have a Vundo remover, but just to make sure it’s the correct one, download it here.

Download this one as well.

Download CCleaner.

Download SuperAntiSpyware (cheesy name, I know, but it works).

Finally, download SpyBot Search and Destroy.

Now for the fun part. As an Administrator (not a limited user), install ALL these programs, then update them. Get a cup of coffee, it’s going to take a while. When you install them, right-click on each file and select “run as administrator”. This should make the programs available to each user on the PC. And yes, you have to run the programs under each user.

Now that the installs and updating are done, go in to your Control Panel and disable System Restore. This needs to be done as Vundo / Virtumonde often hides in the System Restore directory, which can’t be effectively scanned by virus and spyware scanners.

Next, restart the computer in safemode / without networking. While the computer is rebooting, keep tapping the F8 key, you’ll get a menu. Safe mode, without networking. Once Windows starts, log in as the same user you installed all the software as.

First, run CCleaner, checking in every checkbox except Wipe Free Space. This will take some time as CCleaner removes all the temporary files from the computer (removes some of the virus, and makes further scanning faster).

Next, run both the Vundo removers.

After that, run SpyBot, then SuperAntiSpyware. Both will take some time to run.

After they are done running, log out, and log in as any other users and re-run Spybot and SuperAntiSpyware.

You’ll need to do this on any other computers that are connected to this one (laptops included). All PC’s on the same network could possibly be infected.

After all is said and done, Vundo should be completely gone. Make sure to turn System Restore back on, and you can remove the installed programs if you wish.

In the future, make sure you have a good AnitVirus / AntiSpyware program running, because whatever you have now either dosn’t work, or is in need of updating. AVG Internet Security does a good job of stopping these kinds of threats, and isn’t horribly expensive.

Last but not least, don’t click on anything, EVER, that says “click here to scan your PC” or “click here to make your PC faster” if it comes up in a web browser – your web browser will never tell you that your computer is “infected” and offer to fix it – hence, a Trojan.

Happy hunting!

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Why do landline telephone lines take up to 15 seconds to hang up a call?

April 21, 2011 – 1:39 pm

Q.

On most PSTN telephone lines it seems, if a called party tries to hang up on a call but the caller keeps the line open, the call still stays connected for over 15 seconds. This lets the caller forcibly keep the callee’s line occupied. (But when the caller hangs up, the line is immediately released.) Why do phone companies do this to their called parties? Is there some kind of standard in the telecom industry that says that called parties, and not the caller, shouldn’t be able to disconnect their call until being on-hook for over 15 seconds?

A.

The reason this occurs is due to the equipment used to switch phone lines on and off. Some areas (usually rural areas) still have analog phone switching equipment – a mechanical relay is used to route the calls at the switch. It takes several seconds for the relays to release after a call. If one side of the circuit (phone line) remains open, the relay stays closed (connected). This doesn’t apply to newer, digital phone switches.

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Windows 98 PC quit working, Missing Operating System

April 21, 2011 – 1:38 pm

Q.

A friend of mine has an old Windows 98 PC, and for the most part it has worked good, played movies and videos, etc.. Today I turned it on, and it says “Missing Operating System”. I’ve never seen this before, and it has worked fine for a while now, even last night they were using it, but now I’ve tried 3 times and it just says “Missing Operating System”. Is there any way I can manually boot this up? What is going on?

A.

There are a few possibilities, but the most likely problems are either a hard drive that has gone bad, a hard drive cable that has come loose, a BIOS that has lost it’s settings, or the OS got wiped out somehow (either by user error or a virus).

The first thing to check is the BIOS. You need to make sure the hard drive is set up correctly. A Windows 98 PC would likely have an “auto-detect” featurein the BIOS to set up the drive.

If that’s not the case, check the cable going to the drive – open the case (usually a few screws) and look for a long, wide grey or black cable (it will have about 40 wires bundled together, about 2” wide) and make sure it’s securely plugged into the hard drive and the motherboard.

If that doesn’t solve the problem, chances are (being a 13 year old hard drive) the hard drive has failed. Not much you can do but replace it (Newegg.com still sells IDE hard drives for cheap), and reinstall the OS.

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Hosting for my web application

April 19, 2011 – 6:04 pm

Q. (#1)

Hello, I am about to launch a website that is application based, and I am expecting some serious traffic on it. Can you tell me what a good hosting company for this? Thanks a lot and have a great day!

Q. (#2)

Hello guys I have one question about web hostings. I want to make a blog and I need a hosting for it, I can pay up to 8$ a month and I need a lot of space and of course high bandwidth. I’ll use wordpress for blogging. Can u suggest me one? Up to now, I’m thinking about http://a-host.net , godaddy, justhost.com and fatcow.com?!

A.

There are almost as many web hosting companies as there are websites. Most are fairly reliable these days, due to improved hardware. Personally, I usually use Globe Domain. The have all the stuff you’d need for hosting just about anything, and their price-per-bandwidth rates are really good. They’re also quick on problem resolution (customer support). One of my favorite aspects is that they are located in the US. Check them out here.

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Tune up for a 2004 Ford Ranger 4.0l?

April 17, 2011 – 1:25 pm

Q.

I’m doing a lot of internet searching and I’m wondering if it’s cheaper to buy parts online and then go to a mechanic or to just take it into a shop and get a tune up done. I’m weary about going to a dealer or any other shop and getting ripped off. I’d like some suggestions on the cheapest way, yet good for the car. Many thanks.

A.

A 2004 Ranger 4.0l engine doesn’t have much in the way of “tune-up” parts. There is no distributor, so no cap and rotor. Spark plugs and wires should be replaced between 50 and 100K miles, depending on how the vehicle is used. The most important “tune-up” part as far as emissions and fuel mileage go are the Oxygen Sensors. They should be replaced about every 50k miles.

Other than that, regular oil changes will keep things going strong (synthetic oil is a good idea – it’ll last 10,000 miles with a good oil filter, and will get you a little better mileage to boot). Air filters should be changed about every 15 – 25k miles. After every 25k miles, a bottle of Chevron Techron in the fuel tank will help keep cylinders and valves clean(er). A can of MAF/MAP sensor cleaner (about $10 at a parts store) to clean the Mass Air Sensor every 25k miles is a good idea.

Tune-ups used to consist of plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, timing and idle speed adjustments, idle mixture adjustments, oil change, air filter, PCV valve, and more. Todays vehicles don’t require cap and rotor changes, as the don’t exist. The computer controls idle speed and mixture (based on sensors like the O2 sensor). Plugs and wires in new vehicles will usually last at least 50k miles, but many goo 100k without showing and wear, thanks to better silicones on the wires and platinum tip spark plugs.

You can purchase everything yourself for less than the dealer will charge you, but don’t. It’s been my experience that cheap parts are exactly that – cheap. I’ve seen brand new universal style O2 sensors go bad after 5000 miles, MAF sensors that caused the vehicle to loose up to 5mpg, and the like. Dealer parts carry the warranty, and are engineered by the OEM to work properly with the vehicle.

In short, penny-wise, pound foolish.

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How to bleed brakes by yourself?

April 17, 2011 – 1:05 pm

Q.

I have always bleed the brakes on cars and trucks buy having someone press the brakes inside the car until all the air is out of the lines, while opening and closing the bleeder screw. Now my question is, because I don’t have a partner to be inside the car any more, are those hand pumps any good?

A.

Hand pump one-man brake bleeders work fairly well on most, but not all brake systems. Better still are “speed-bleeders” – they’re replacement bleed screws that have a one way check valve built in to them. All you have to do is install them (unscrew the old ones, screw in the new ones, very simple), hook a hose to the end of the bleeder and submerge it in a bottle of brake fluid. You then pump the brakes, and the “speed-bleeders” act as the person opening and closing the screw.

Always remember when bleeding brakes, to 1) keep the brake fluid reservoir full, 2) start from the furthest wheel from the brake master cylinder, and 3) if at all possible, bleed ALL the wheels, not just 1 or 2.

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What are the most common (and least expensive) inkjet printer cartridges?

April 11, 2011 – 1:44 pm

Q.

I’m looking to stock my office with some new, cheap inkjet printers. I’m just wondering which inks are the most plentiful (and therefore cheap). I’ll be using both HP and Lexmark printers, if that helps.

A.

HP and Lexmark inkjet printers and inks are probably the most common, found in almost every Walmart, Sams Club, Best Buy, and other big-box stores. The most common inks in use are:

——————-123inkjets————

HP:
# 61 (Most current HP Inkjet Printers)
#’s 17 (Color) and 27 (Black), which are high yield, older inks.
#’s 16 (Color) and 26 (Black), which are normal yield, older inks.

LexMark:
#’s 14 (Black) and 15 (Color), most new Lexmark InkJets
#’s 36 (Black) and 37 (Color), most new Lexmark InkJets

These inks can all be found at local retailers, either OEM (original manufacturer), or generic / remanufactured.

I for one have never had any problems with reman’d inks, so long as the come from a reputable source. Ordering ink online is ALWAYS the cheapest way to go, as the retail markup on ink is outrageous.

I’ve tried many online vendors, but the best for quality, price, and delivery time, in my opinion, is 123inkjets.com. They’ve always got some deal going on, and shipping is free if you purchase enough ink. They carry ink for everything, so give them a shot.

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If you blow an intake gasket (Chevy 350), will it spray oil outside the vehicle?

April 8, 2011 – 4:14 pm

Q.

I Thought I blew a head gasket on my 5.7 Chevy Vortec engine, but it ended up being the intake gasket. Under the van all along the bottom of the vehicle was coolant and oil as if it were blowing up under the van while I was driving. I finally realized that this must have been the oil pressure relief valve opening because of the high volume of water mixed with the oil in the pan. Am I correct in my assumption? Fortunately this all happened over a couple of 3 mile highway trips, as I had checked the oil the day earlier and it was right on the line and had no signs of coolant in it. In fact, it wasn’t until I went to start the van a couple days later that it wouldn’t fire. I checked the oil and it was way high! so upon draining it there was a quart of coolant that came out first, in fact it was more clear than all of the coolant I had drained during the heads removal. I initially suspected the heads, but heads were fine as were the gaskets ( BTW an entire top end gasket kit is only $60 at an auto parts store), so after looking at the intake gasket and researching online it all made sense, the intake gasket was really shot on the port nearest the driver’s seat.

A.

A cracked intake gasket (near one of the coolant crossover ports), can spray coolant all over the backside or front of the engine, washing oil away, making it look like an oil leak. A crack in the intake gasket on the lifter valley side can leak coolant into the crankcase. New gaskets (nothing fancy, just OEM), and proper torque sequence when reinstalling the manifold, should solve the problem.

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Right or left side of car?

April 8, 2011 – 4:12 pm

Q.

I need a new passenger side CV drive axle. The parts sites I’m looking at to order it says “right” or “left”? How do you know if the passenger side is considered right or left? If your in the car its the right. If your out of the car its the left. Why cant they just say passenger side or driver side???

A.

This is a common and understandable problem. In the US, drivers sit on the “left” side of the car. The same model vehicle in, say, Australia, would be on the “right” side. Both vehicles use most of the same parts, so to distinguish them, the manufacturers use “left” and “right”.

The L or R is based on sirring in the car, or in the US, left is drivers side, right is passenger.

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